Located 540 km north of Adelaide and 240 m above sea level, Beltana is one of the truly remarkable outback settlements in South Australia. Originally settled in the 1850s and 60s, it is hard to imagine today that the little town grew to boast a population of 390 with 70 houses by 1883. Changing patterns of employment, transportation and resource exploitation have caused its slow decline. Its refusal to lie down and die, the fate of many small towns in the north of South Australia, is a source of amazement to anyone who visits the town - although the locals know all too well why it hasn't. Waking on a cool morning to the sun sparkling on the leaves of the trees, watching emus wander past or euros grazing among the saltbushes, discovering a small, still waterhole in the creek or a flowering eremophila on a rocky hillside, watching the golden rays of sunset light up the foothills and Mt Stuart – these magic moments are a daily experience for those lucky enough to live in Beltana.